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旧帖 2019-08-20 07:55:24
Post #1
Feathercraft 永远的经典——国际技术讨论保留
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04

Feathercraft 永远的经典——国际技术讨论保留

A good folder will outlast a rigid boat, so long as it's cared for.


只要它得到照顾,一个好的折叠艇将比刚性船更耐用。

kurtyang04 于 2019-08-20 08:38:44 编辑
 
旧帖 2019-08-20 08:12:42
Post #2
Re: Feathercraft 永远经典经典——国际技术讨论 ...
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 However already during the first rescue session, performing a T-rescue with another hardshell boat, the deck fabric was damaged on top of the deck bar - mind you, I thought I was being careful. Nothing too serious, the skin is still watertight, only the colored top layer came off at an area around the size of half a small fingernail, however it still annoys me on this beautiful boat.

然而,在第一次救援练习期间,用另一艘硬壳船进行T救援时,甲板上的甲板织物被损坏了 - 请注意,我以为我很小心。 没有什么太严重,蒙皮仍然是不透水的,只有彩色的顶层在半个小指甲大小的区域内脱落,但它仍然让我在这条美丽的船上烦恼。
 
旧帖 2019-08-20 08:18:09
Post #3
Re: Feathercraft 永远经典经典——国际技术讨论 ...
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 Not wanting my deck to be damaged and certainly not wanting to cause a leak, I cut a piece of the hull patch material from the Feathercraft repair kit and glued it to the deck over the deck bar. As you note, this is similar to the strip that Feathercraft uses on the K1 and Kats.
 
旧帖 2019-08-20 08:23:22
Post #4
Re: Feathercraft 永远经典经典——国际技术讨论 ...
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 Except for the looks, of course - removing the strip will leave the deck-ridge fairly well protected, albeit not pristine looking, with Aquaseal layer. In my opinion, unless the boat is for sale in the nearest future, quality (i.e. functional condition) is more important than looks, - this is why I have already covered the most abraded spots on the deck with Aquaseal, not just along the deck-ridge, but everywhere where found it necessary.
 
旧帖 2019-08-20 08:25:51
Post #5
Re: Feathercraft 永远经典经典——国际技术讨论 ...
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 We had these questions on another thread this past July I think. I have used 303 protectant on my Kahuna with Feathercrafts blessing ( I asked them if they had any info on whether it was a good idea or not and they recommend it on the cordura fabric, but have no experience in duratec )

It has been great. It will wear off after a few months. The only concern is repair of the fabric with a healthy dose of protectant and whether AguaSeal would adhear. I concluded that Cotol might remove the protectant so you can patch or wait until it wears off.

As for scuffing, I agree with the principal Tsumanichuck and Alex have as war scars or tattoos of a good paddle, but I have put a small drop of Aqua Seal on my 'scars' to seal them and not worried about covering them up...why bother?
 
旧帖 2019-08-20 08:28:16
Post #6
Re: Feathercraft 永远经典经典——国际技术讨论 ...
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 Time does reduce the ability of 303 to inhibit adhesion.

On hulls, this is not an issue, if you abrade through the exterior layer of hull to solid, unaffected material, and bond to that. I consistently 303 the hulls of my folders and have never had a patch fail, because I really scuff it up.

Solvents do not remove 303 effectively. Cotol is simply toluene, a good solvent, and good for prepping surfaces for Aquaseal, but it will not remove 303. There are some really aggressive "cleaners" used by the automotive glass installation industry that are better than toluene for this, but I would not recommend them because of their toxicity. I have a bit of one (from 3M), and use it sparingly, with lots of ventilation.

On decks, 303 is a bugaboo, because you can't get rid of the stuff that has migrated dowward, into the weave, by abrasion. I would not use it on deck fabric for that reason. Exception: folders which have a non-woven deck.

Repairing nicks on your deck with Aquaseal is probably a good first thing to try. If it does not stick, it tells you the 303 is not gone yet. Wait a few months, remove the duct tape you put on for a temp patch, clean the duct tape adhesive off (Cotol will do that well), and try again.

303 is good for hulls, and not so good for decks.
 
旧帖 2019-08-20 08:38:10
Post #7
Re: Feathercraft 永远经典经典——国际技术讨论 ...
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 Brian Day wrote a good article in Sea Kayaker on the modified T rescue. [sorry not at home and able to give the issue number]
This avoids much of the lifting mentioned and most of the friction occurs on the cockpit rim where it is protected by your spray skirt; which is easily repaired or eventually replaced. It does however require the use of a seasock to be effective otherwise an x rescue would be necessary.
 
旧帖 2019-08-20 08:41:45
Post #8
Re: Feathercraft 永远的经典——国际技术讨论保 ...
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 I have applied 303 protectant a few times a year for over two years on my Klondike's deck and hull. To my thinking the 303 will protect the deck from UV fading and staining, and the hull from collecting harbour grime. After being on the water many times, the kayak still looks like new, with all its colours and shine ( I hope that it is not a subjective statement). Of course, the bottom has a few scratches, but after 303 treatment they seem to visually disappear.
 
旧帖 2019-08-20 10:21:07
Post #9
Feathercraft 永远的经典——国际技术讨论保留
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04    PaddleWise Topics PaddleWise Stories PaddleWise Photo Album
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      PaddleWise Discussion on Feathercraft K-Light and Kahuna
The following discussion occurred on the PaddleWise mailing list. All original comments are presented in their entirety. Some quoting of previous posts copied into subsequent replies are excluded from those replies to improve readability and reduce redundancy. Full archives may be retrieved by PaddleWise members from the PaddleWise digest by sending a message to addleWise-digest-request@paddlewise.net">PaddleWise-digest-request@paddlewise.net with the word "index" included in the body of the message. These posts may not be reproduced or redistributed without the author's permission.
From: [Ralph Diaz]
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 18:39:04 -0800
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] K-Light back from Baja
Karen H. wrote:
> I don't expect to be traveling to the east coast any time soon, Ralph,
> but if you come to the symposium in Washington (Port Townsend, I think)
> I'll bring my boat for your demonstration. In fact, I'll do the assembly
> and let you critique!  ;-)
Well, I have not been out that way for that symposium since 1993.  Maybe
I will come out.
> I have to stick with what I said about the boat being slow and hard to
> control in some of the conditions in which we were paddling.
> technique, but when the wind blows that boat insists on turning right
> into it!
>
> The boat was incredibly stable, but making headway in a fairly strong
> wind with a good rip current was a real battle when crossing La Partida.
> My guys in the Sealution and Necky Narpa were struggling too, but at
> least they were able to maintain a course and concentrate their efforts
> on paddling. I was literally doing a sweep paddle most of the way across
> (2, 3 or 4 sweeps on the right, one short stroke on left) to keep the
> boat headed in the right direction and maintain some forward momentum.
> It was challenging paddling for everyone, but the pointed bow and
> sleeker design of the Sealution in particular seemed to be the most
> efficient in those conditions.
I think someone better qualified than I like John Winters might comment
on boat design and weathercocking.  But I do know that the first year or
two of paddling I would find myself in the same predicament.  I was in
hardshells but that same zillion strokes on one side to one stroke on
the other side.  It just takes learning how to keep a boat going
straight.
> BTW, I'd be interested in knowing how others control the direction of a
> rudderless boat in similar conditions. Also, any thoughts on the effect
> of deckbags and other gear tied on the deck in regard to wind?
You have probably started a good discussion here.  I find that several
things work for me when a boat wants to turn on me:
1.  Choke up on the paddle with the longest part of the paddle on the
side toward which you are being pulled.  Choking up like that on the
paddle creates a turn in the opposite direction that counterbalances the
tendency of the boat to turn.
2.  Slide one cheek (the kind you sit on not the kind you smile with
:-)) toward the side toward which the boat wants to turn.  This makes
the boat lean on that side and creates a turning movement in the
opposite direction.
3. With every stroke on the side toward which the boat is being pulled,
lean the boat in that direction in the middle of your stroke.  Again
this creates a turn counter to the turning tendency of the boat.
4. Put a little bit more power in the stroke on the side toward which
the boat is being pulled; again this is a sweep that will turn you
slightly away from the boat's pull.
That is the basic set of things to do.  You do them in gradations and in
various mixes.  There are other variations too.  If you do these, you
seldom will have to double or triple up paddle strokes on one side.
I learned these with the Klepper Aerius single which always wanted to
turn into any wind of any magnitude or type.  Great boat for learning
such technique.  I have not found the K-Light at all behaving in this
way.  My current Nautiraid 1 acts somewhat that way though.
ralph diaz --
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 09:47:34 -0700
From: ralph diaz
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] K-light
Merijn Wijnen wrote:
> Hi all,
> Someone has given me a rather good offer for a used 5 year old k-light
> (about $800 including 4-piece paddle, but that is converted from European
> currency). As the seller lives a bit to far away to test the boat, I have
> a few questions for the k-light owners on this list.
>
> Will the boat fit me, and leave some storage capacity for weekend trips
> (tent etc., limited amount of supplies, weight about 25 kg (40 lbs))?
That is an excellent price, whatever the year of manufacturer (the
K-Lights began production in April 1993)
Most definitely at your weight (listed below), you will have plenty of
room for gear.  I did an article awhile back on packing the K-Light.  I
weighed 162 at the time (now about 168).  And I was able to load all I
needed in the boat for 6 days of paddling/food.  I could have packed
more in the boat but I was limited because, for the article, I took only
what I physically could carry in public transportation (city bus, huge
terminal, commuter train, a walk to launch site) without using any form
of cart.  I think it appears on someone's webpage but I would be willing
to fax it to you if you wish.  After I did the article, I got several
people sending me letters or email saying that they had camped out of
the K-Light for 3 weeks in Alaska and northern climes that would have
required bigger sleeping bag, more clothing etc.  So it will work.  It
will, BTW, work for any small boat.  You don't need a big boat to camp
unless you weigh over 200 and therefore require more reserve capacity.
> I am one of the long and skinny variety, my length is 1.94 m (6'6''wink,
> feet size 13 (46 european), weight  80 kg (160 lbs). For comparison:
> I like a boat with a tigth fit, esspacially in the cockpit, e.g. a Khat-S
> cockpit is OK, K1 (old model) feels very wide. Feet space in Khat S is a
> bit tight, in K1 OK.
The foot pedals are certainly adjustable enough for your leg length.
You can get more length by reversing them (a simple procedure: take the
foot pedals and take out the bolt holding it to its mount then reverse
the foot pedal portion) if needed.  Your shoe size means that you will
likely have your feet pushing up on the deck fabric.  It will do no
harm.  If you angle your feet a bit (if comfortable) you won't have even
this protrusion.  The cockpit is not wide feeling at all.  You can lock
yourself in nicely in the boat.  You can add padding to the sling seat
near your hip if you want more snugness.  There are all sorts of way to
accomplish this in the K-Light.
> Will the boat with weekend loading still be nimble enough to handle well
> at sea in rough conditions?
Within reason.  Remember that you are in a boat just 13 feet long.
Rember the scene in the movie "Jaws" where they first go out and see the
size of the shark and one guy says to the other "I think we need a
bigger boat!"  Human nature generally dictates that at such times as
rough sea conditions, one tends to want something longer and more
substantial feeling around them.
It will remain nimble.  When I was writing that article, I launched at
the same time with my fully loaded boat as a fellow in a hardshell who
was just packed for a day trip.  Within about a mile or so, he said to
me "hey, that's a pretty fast boat."  So I was not dragging him back.
> Will the total loading slow down the boat so much that I will become a
> burden for my hardshell companions?
Depends on your companions.  If they are skilled, strong paddlers in
boat that are four and five feet longer than yours, then of course, if
they speed up and go toward the max speed of their hulls, you will not
be able to keep up.  But if they stick to 4 or 4.5 mph, you will be able
to.  The   K-Light, like many small boats, are agile and accelerate much
faster than longer boats.  But its top speed is not that of a much
longer boat.
ralph diaz --
From: elias.ross@...
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 17:41:27 -0700
Subject: [Paddlewise] Fitting a small paddler into a folding boat
[I'm new to this list, I'll give a proper introduction later.]
My chief paddling companion is my wife, who is barely five feet tall.
She also lacks wide hips and finds most boats not for her size.  I have
had her try a few fiberglass hulls, such as the Pacific Water Sports
Wigeon, and from what I've heard the Mariner Elan would be a good fit as
well, but I've had my mind set on getting a folding boat for various
reasons.
I attended the West Coast Sea Kayak Symposium with the hope of trying
out some Feathercraft folding kayaks, but was fairly disappointed that
even the K-Light was still a bit too big.  The cockpit seemed to clear
her elbows well enough but the foot pedals did not allow her to brace
her knees near the cockpit of the boat too well.  Having seen what
people have done with foam and pads to create a proper fit was
encouraging.  It seemed to me adding velcro strips for removable hip
pads might be a sufficient solution.  It seems knee pads that weren't
glued wouldn't be very strong.
It seems like it'd be pretty much impossible to have her fit well in a
kayak 25" wide like the K-Light, without having her bend her knees a
whole lot.  How much should a kayaker bend his knees?  I usually have
little more than a 20 degree bend, since my legs are quite long.  One of
the Feathercraft people said to just turn the foot brace around and it'd
be okay, like they were afraid they really didn't have a boat for her
size.
And then I wonder if I should just give up on the whole idea and get a
fiberglass boat and find a place to store it.
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 20:11:32 +0000
Subject: [Paddlewise] Small paddler in a folding boat, Try Khatsalano
From: Rex Roberton
Was there a reason you did not try the demo Khatsalano?  It is 22 inches (56
cm) wide and 11.5 inches deep (29 cm).  It had their new inflatable hip
pads.  I got in it on Sunday, blew up the hip pads and had a instant, custom
fit.  It was very comfortable!  I've never been in a sea kayak "right out of
the factory" that had such a nice fit.  There were no knee braces but I did
not need any because my knees were against the skin and the cockpit tube
came across my thighs.  My knees and thighs were very comfortable.  With
this instant, "custom" fit, I was easily rolling the kayak and was even
rolling it without a paddle (hand rolls).
I can't answer your question about the foot rests but I'm sure you could
find a way to customize the foot rests for her.  I'm 5' 9" so there was no
problem for me.  Try contacting Doug Simpson, the owner, through their web
site (www.feathercraft.com, email at info@feathercraft.com) and I bet he
will have a answer for you.  I met him at the symposium and talked to him
several times.  Very nice and very helpful.
Rex Roberton
From: elias.ross@...
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 18:20:32 -0700
Subject: [Paddlewise] Feathercraft Kahuna
I also wanted to mention that Feathercraft had a new boat at the West
Coast Kayak Symposium called the "Kahuna" (which is a pretty lame name,
evoking images of Hawaii and surf dudes) that is the successor to the
K-Light.  The boat is merely a stretched version of the K-Light.
According to what the dealer said, the Kahuna has two more feet of
length, which would put it at about 14.5' in length.  Feathercraft also
had a variation on the Kahuna, called the Big Kahuna which had a larger
cockpit.  The price for the boat went up about $50 or so, and the weight
went up only a few more pound.
Alledgedly, they are coming out with inflatable waist pads for the
seat.  The dealer described it as a one-piece accessory that fit around
the seat and could be inflated for a better fit.  It's supposed to be in
production now.
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 10:14:00 -0700
From: ralph diaz
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Small paddler in a folding boat, Try
Khatsalano
Since sometime in the 1920s, folding kayaks have occasionally been
outfitted with an assortment of devices to snug in on either the hips,
knees/thighs, or both.  I have seen illustrations of these from that
earlier period.
In more recent years, individuals have adapted their own using pads from
Banshee and other companies or devising their own.  And as pointed out
below, Feathercraft has a new device just being introduced now that
should fit all the models as far as I can tell (I am having one shipped
to me soon for a boat review).  BTW, I have seen smaller people than
your wife fit snuggly enough in the K-Light.  It always amazes me how
two people of the same size can have a totally different concept of
looseness and tightness in the same boat.
> cm) wide and 11.5 inches deep (29 cm).  It had their new inflatable hip
> pads.  I got in it on Sunday, blew up the hip pads and had a instant, custom
> fit.  It was very comfortable!  I've never been in a sea kayak "right out of
> the factory" that had such a nice fit.  There were no knee braces but I did
> not need any because my knees were against the skin and the cockpit tube
> came across my thighs.  My knees and thighs were very comfortable.  With
> this instant, "custom" fit, I was easily rolling the kayak and was even
> rolling it without a paddle (hand rolls).
This is that new device.  This insight from Rex also points out
something that people are unaware of...you can very effectively achieve
knee bracing by digging your knees into the deck material which will
give a little and provide an indentation for your knees.
> I can't answer your question about the foot rests but I'm sure you
> could find a way to customize the foot rests for her.
Everything can be fixed and modified in a folding kayak.  If you enter
the realm of folding kayaks, you will find a world of innovation and
modification.  We folding kayakers are doing it all the time and the
ideas and tips raised are the grist for my newsletter's mill.
best, ralph
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 10:14:13 -0700
From: ralph diaz
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Feathercraft Kahuna
The Kahuna is somewhat a stretched K-Light but there are marked
differences that hold a lot of promise.  The length went from 12 ft 10
inches to 14 feet 9 inches.  The weight is the virtually the same as the
pre-2000 version of the K-Light (35 pounds the Kahuna; 34.5 pounds for
the 1994-1999 K-Light).  The price differential is actually $80.  The
boat clearly will have more capacity in terms of volume and weight.  It
will track well and, with a more sharply tapered bow, will do better in
the water.
Basically when Feathercraft managed to get the K-Light down to 31 pounds
this year (a combo of new deck and hull material and RF-welding of
seams), it made the obvious decision of "why not take the weight
reduction gain and throw it back into the hopper to make the boat
longer".  Thus the Kahuna.  Also borrowing from the situation the
company faced in 1996 or so, it opted to offer two cockpit sizes.  In
that year, the company changed the K-light from the cockpit size of the
K-1 down to that of the Khats.  People were clamoring for the older size
and the company was forced to make a few more.  Now there is the Kahuna
(Khats size cockpit) and the Big Kahuna that has the K-1 size, about 7
inches longer and an inch wider if I recall correctly.
> Alledgedly, they are coming out with inflatable waist pads for the
> seat.  The dealer described it as a one-piece accessory that fit around
> the seat and could be inflated for a better fit.  It's supposed to be in
> production now.
Generally the seats in all the Feathercraft singles are the same in
setup.  So I can't imagine why any improvement could not be fitted into
any of them with a bit of savvy and adjustment.
The company is phasing out the K-Light.  I could write a long ode to the
K-Light but I will spare you plowing reading through one.  But the
K-Light remains a terrific boat and one should not hesitate to buy
something of its magnitude in just a 31 pound weight form.  Its speed
and the ability to keep up with all but the most determined person in a
much longer hardshell has always surprised both the K-Lighter and the
guy in that sleek boat.  It is manueverable, easy to assembly (if you
have the knack), light to carry.  Just a great boat whose performance
belied its smallish size.  The Kahuna is likely to be better yet.  I saw
one over the weekend but didn't get a chance to paddle it (it was at a
hugely successful swim escort support a number of us were doing on the
Hudson in a 7.8 mile swim along Manhattan's shoreline).  But I will.
ralph
From: "Matt Broze"
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Small paddler in a folding boat, Try
  Khatsalano
Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 21:18:32 -0700
Rex Roberton asked:
>>Was there a reason you did not try the demo Khatsalano? <<
I'm going to be a buttinski and suggest a few reasons because they might not
be obvious from a test paddle of any kayak in calm conditions.
But first, one obvious reason not to try it might be the huge price
difference. You wouldn't dare try it, you just might like it. Second there
is the issue of weight, advantage K-light.
For a paddler as small as described (under 5 feet) the Khatsalano with its
17-4 length and relatively stiff tracking is going to need a fairly strong
paddler to turn it in a strong wind. I don't mean someone strong for her
size I mean ultimate strength. She will be arm wrestling the wind and
offering the wind a much longer lever arm to use against her. Further, with
a stiffer tracking kayak (that can't be turned as quickly in the troughs
before the bow clears the crest and again faces the full strength of the
wind) you will essentially be allowing the wind to get a really good grip on
you. When you are protected somewhat from the wind in a trough, if you can't
make up more than the angle you lost to the wind at the crest of the last
wave crest then a turn just isn't going to happen. The shorter more
maneuverable K-light has a big edge here especially for a smaller, lighter
paddler (or any one of more limited arm wrestling ability). It is not
strength to weight ratio that counts here it is ultimate strength. The
lighter paddler is at the further disadvantage of floating higher out of the
water and therefore exposing more of the kayak to the wind. Gear weight in
the kayak helps a lot here as the mass in the ends keeps the kayak from
swinging around so quickly at the wave crest.
The K-light cuts its wetted surface (friction) by being shorter and as Ralph
pointed out, its speed can surprise a lot of kayakers, especially those
saddled by the mistaken, but common, belief that longer is always faster
(see FAQ's on our website for more details on this). The Khats cuts its
wetted surface by being narrower so my guess is drag below 4 knots is
probably pretty even between the two. Total useable gear storage space is
about the same in the two kayaks as well so there is no advantage to either
there. So the differences are price, weight, cockpit fit and handling in
strong winds.  The Khats's lower cockpit rim (same size as K-light's rim)
and bridge truss style stiffening tubes/thighbraces does give a better fit
to a smaller paddler but I'm sure much can be done to improve the fit on the
K-light (if it really needs to be improved--which I'm not so sure of-- I'll
bet that after owning a K-light for a while you will find it doesn't need as
much modification as you think it does now).
My advice is to get a K-light while you still can. The Kahuna promises to be
the kayak that a lot of folks are looking for. More capacity/reasonable
price and better suited in reserve buoyancy for heavier paddlers. I think
Feathercraft is making a mistake to discontinue the K-light though. The
Kahuna will cut into the K-light's market seriously for sure, but the
K-light will still likely be the better choice for smaller paddlers. My
advice would be to direct it more at smaller paddlers by shortening the
footpads and narrowing up and possibly lowering the cockpit slightly. I vote
to keep the K-light in the line and will tell that to Feathercraft the next
time I talk to someone there.
I threw out my back testing/lifting heavy stiff tracking kayaks on Saturday
so didn't get to try the Kahuna on Sunday at the Symposium along with many
others I wanted to try.  Did you try the Sterns 1K-116 inflatable at $299. I
tried many little recreational hardshell kayaks at the symposium on Saturday
and was mostly disappointed. I was impressed by the Sterns inflatable,
probably partly because it paddled way better than I had expected and had a
comfortable "seat" (and partly because I was so disappointed in most of the
other sub 12 foot kayaks I tested). Now if Sterns would get rid of the
stupid fingernail snagging grab loops they recently added to the front of
the once wonderfully smooth rub pad that protected my arms from the abrasive
nylon on the rest of the tubes I'd be happier still. As it is I guess I
could cut the grab loops away, the kayak is so light they really aren't
needed (I heard they were added so that folks would use them rather than try
to pick up the boat using the edge of the zippered spraydeck. My advice is
beef that up with the same husky webbing used for the finger snagger handles
and let them use it. $299 and packs down to about a third the volume of a
K-light. Seems perfect for that plane trip taken for other reasons (than
camping out of a kayak), but where you have a little time in a new local to
explore a few of the local waterways. I suggested to Chris Cunningham that
he ought to try it out. He even Eskimo rolled it.
Matt Broze
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 09:48:31 -0700
From: ralph diaz
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Small paddler in a folding boat, Try
  Khatsalano
Matt Broze wrote:
> The K-light cuts its wetted surface (friction) by being shorter and as Ralph
> pointed out, its speed can surprise a lot of kayakers, especially those
> saddled by the mistaken, but common, belief that longer is always faster
> (see FAQ's on our website for more details on this).
I am glad you make this same point.  Paddlers are lemmings in how much
they follow some general concept like the one about length or for that
matter the concept of width.  The K-Light is as fast as many longer
boats except perhaps at top speeds, but who can paddle at top speed all
the time?  The K-Light has the beauty of paddling almost effortlessly at
a cruising speed of around 4 knots and has lots of glide between
strokes.  I do an energy conserving stroke (I am over 60 and not in the
best of shape) in which I take a longer more powerful stroke with each
paddle dip with a split second rest before the next dip.  So if you see
me paddling alongside another paddler, he is stroking much more than I
am.  The K-Light allows that because of its great glide between
strokes.  It is also relatively easy to get it up to speed as it is so
light and agile with little inertia to overcome. \
Oh the point about width.  Many of the folding kayaks are often some 4
inches wider than hardshells.  But that is up high at the deck seem
level where the sponsons flare out.  If you look at the cross section
that is actually being pushed through the water it is significantly
narrower.  If you get a folding kayak in which you don't sink it to the
point that its sponsons are constantly in contact with the water, you
have less to push through the water.
> My advice is to get a K-light while you still can. The Kahuna promises to be
> the kayak that a lot of folks are looking for. More capacity/reasonable
> price and better suited in reserve buoyancy for heavier paddlers. I think
> Feathercraft is making a mistake to discontinue the K-light though. The
> Kahuna will cut into the K-light's market seriously for sure, but the
> K-light will still likely be the better choice for smaller paddlers. My
> advice would be to direct it more at smaller paddlers by shortening the
> footpads and narrowing up and possibly lowering the cockpit slightly. I vote
> to keep the K-light in the line and will tell that to Feathercraft the next
> time I talk to someone there.
I too am disappointed to see that the K-Light is being discontinued.
For those with K-Lights that they wish to sell, the resale value should
go up quite a bit.  They will offer a premium package for some
paddlers.  I have not talked with Feathercraft about this much but I
think what happened is that in effect they changed the model so much
that it really needed a new name.  The same has happened all along with
the company's K-1.  It has borne that name since the early 1980s but it
has radically changed, so much that it could have easily been called the
Granville (for the island in Vancouver where the factory is located) or
anything else.  At one point, it was not much longer than the new Kahuna
(Kahuna 14 ft 9 in; the 1980s K-1 without coaming around 15 feet and a
couple of inches) Even in 1998, the company changed the K-1 so much
(length earlier had creeped up to 15 ft 10 in and then with the latest
change to 16.5 feet; but the frame also was completely overhauled and
the bow made to look like that on the Khats with a fine entry point)
that in my review I stated that they probably should have changed the
name because it was now a different boat.  In a sense Feathercraft may
just be wanting to recognize that the Kahuna is a K-Light so radically
changed (significant length addition plus sharper bow, plus a
significant frame change) that it is a new model.
Matt mentioned something about Feathercraft should perhaps lower the
cockpit rim on the K-Light and continue to sell it for smaller
paddlers.  In there lies a probably for Feathercraft.  The
K-Light/Kahuna are the only model(s) produced by the company that has
injection molded crossribs (of polycarbonate) instead of being cut by
machine individually from large slabs of polyethylene.  The costs of the
molds and machinery is so great that the Kahuna will have the exact same
4 injection molded crossribs as the K-Light.  Feathercraft simply could
not justify now reducing the cockpit height on the K-Light (which would
require lowering the height of crossribs #2 and #3).
BTW, the Kahuna looks terrific.  Elongating the K-Light by two feet (12
ft 10 inches to 14 feet 9 inches) has made the boat look sleeker
especially with its more narrow sharp and slightly uplifted bow.
Changing only $80 more is also a plus.
ralph diaz
From: "Wendy Ogaki"
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Small paddler in a folding boat, Try
  Khatsalano
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 17:25:42 GMT
I bought the Khats this spring and at 5'3" am still struggling to get a good
tight fit in it.  The foot pegs were positioned on the reinforcement bars
but Feathercraft is going to do a retrofit for me to put them back on the
chines.  Without getting this correction, it's pretty difficult to brace
properly.  (I'm going to check with Feathercraft on those new hip pads.)
I had tried various things to get a tight fit -- moving my seat up or would
have to sit in an almost yoga position to get my thighs to be touching the
sides of the boat which was a tad bit uncomfortable after awhile, even for
an ex-gymnast.
I'd say for someone 5', it will probably be way too big.
From: Walt Levins
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 15:07:01 EDT
Subject: [Paddlewise] k-light
    I own a k-light and a pygmy arctic tern. I don't mean to ruffle any
feathers but my arctic tern is definitely a faster boat. And I mean at
cruising speed. Oh, the k-light is a great little boat and I keep it for its
portability but in no way can it match my hardshell in performance. Just
telling it like it is from my experience.
Walt Levins
Portland,Or.
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 16:05:25 -0400
From: Nick Schade
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] k-light
It is kind of unfair to compare one given foldable with another given
hardshell and then make a generalization about the whole class of boats.
There are going to be hardshell kayaks slower than your K-light and a
foldable could be made which is faster than your arctic tern. Even if the
K-light was exactly the same shape as the Arctic Tern it could be some
reason other than the soft skin which makes the boat slower. It could be
because the rubber is rougher than gel-coat.
Nick
Guillemot Kayaks
http://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/
>>>>"It's not just Art, It's a Craft!"<<<<
From: [Ralph Hoehn]
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 17:34:14 EDT
Subject: [Paddlewise] Soft- and Hard-Shelled Boats
Nick Schade writes:
<< It is kind of unfair to compare one given foldable with another given
hardshell and then make a generalization about the whole class of boats. ... >>
Hear, hear, Sir.
But was this really a case of hard shell vs. soft skin? Walt did stress that he
values his K-Light for its particular strength, namely its portability ...
At about 6:45 pm, crossing 5th Avenue last Friday, I was almost run over by a
tall, athletic looking male pedaling a folding bicycle against traffic on 36th
Street. As I turned for the double take, I noticed a large black pack on his back
with a Feathercraft logo. Could it be that this lucky person was about to pedal
his bike to the banks of the Hudson, unfold his boat, fold up his bike and stow it,
then paddle a while before reversing the procedure and pedaling home happy and
relaxed?
What a way to start the weekend!
Would the guilty party own up, please?
Best regards,
The Other Ralph
Ralph@PouchBoats...
From: "PeterO"
Subject: [Paddlewise] Kahuna questions
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 18:15:34 +1100
Richard Best wrote
> Anyway, in the end I bought the Kahuna. It's a
> remarkable kayak: very portable, easy assembly
> with a bit of practice, comfortable, stable and
> quite fast enough
G'Day, Richard and paddlewise,
You mentioned your favourable experience with the Kahuna and this leads me
to ask a few questions also. Maybe you can help? I've heard many good
reports on this boat and have frequently been tempted to buy it except for
one bad report from a local who was desperately disappointed because one of
the ribs cut into his legs making it almost unbearably uncomfortable for
him. As I'm still tempted and don't have access to try one out, can anyone
tell me if this boat is likely to fit a 6 foot 1.5 inch 11 stone male. Also
is it suitable for up to 20 knots wind and/or 2 metre sea (i.e grade 3
conditions by the NSWKC standards). Also how long does it take to assemble,
disassemble, clean and stow away on an average day?
All the best, PeterO
From: "Richard Best"
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Kahuna questions
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 23:37:17 -0000
Dear Peter and all,
   Feathercraft make plastic tabs that velcro onto the crossribs if they dig
into your legs. I don't use them, but the Khatsalano I tried had them, and
they really felt comfortable.
   I'm 5' 10" and find the Kahuna quite comfortable, after finding the
position for the seat sling that suits me best.
   I haven't been out in conditions as challenging as 2m waves etc. so I
can't comment!
   It takes me 30 minutes to assemble, though I think I will reduce that
with practice, and probably half that to disassemble. I spent about half an
hour at home fussing over it, cleaning it up, and roll the skin back up
later once it's dry.
   Best wishes,
   Richard
From: "Severn Clay"
Subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Kahuna questions
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 19:37:32 -0500
PeterO,
I'm a 6'0" 190-lb paddler (I don't know that in stones) who recently bought
a used Kahuna.  It is my first boat, and I have to say that though I have
little experience with many other boats, I'm quite happy with it.  It moves
very easily in the water, and is a very cozy fit (this is a normal, not a
Big, Kahuna).  I take it apart after every paddle, and assembly time is down
to a leisurely 20-25 minutes.  I bought it from a local dealer specifically
because I could take a class in a demo boat and because he showed me how to
assemble and disassemble it.  The Feathercraft video is ok (and endearingly
Canadian), but there is no substitute for the reinforcement of seeing the
actual boat being assembled close up.
It took me awhile to get used to the sea sock, but in chilly weather it
gives the boat a pleasant sleeping-bag-like feel.  The foot pedals do not
feel as secure as I would like, especially through the sea sock (there was
an article on fixing this in the last Folding Kayaker Newsletter, though no
particularly elegant solutions [sorry]).  I haven't had any problems with
the ribs cutting into my legs, but the seat is remarkably adjustable and I
have yet to identify what configuration corresponds to lumbar bliss (I got
it once).  The backpack is a bit heavier than I expected, and the straps
aren't comparable to a typical hiking pack for comfort and fit,  but being
6'0" tall is a bonus here because I CAN carry it fairly easily through the
subways without a cart.  It weathercocks a little, but nothing that can't be
corrected by leaning.
Can't tell you about the 20 knot winds and 2-meter seas yet.
That, with many caveats, is my review...
Best,
Severn Clay
From: "drsm"
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Kahuna questions
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 21:28:01 -0500
PeterO:
I'm 5'11" and 145 lb. and just acquired a Kahuna this year. I like it a lot.
It's light and takes maybe 30 minutes to assemble. I suspect the assembly
time can be shortened to just over 20 minutes with practice. I've only had
it out in 15 knot winds and 3 foot waves, but it handled well. I found it
easier to maneuver than my old Skerray (probably due to weight and length
considerations. The biggest pleasant surprise for me has been the seat--very
comfortable. I do have to pack a couple things beside my hips to reduce a
tendency to slide to the side in the seat, though.
Steve
From: "ralph diaz"
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Kahuna questions
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 22:19:51 -0500
Feathercraft has an accessory, Hip Fit Kit, that provides hip padding for
those who feel they are sliding around in the seat or want to have extra
hold for rolling.
ralph diaz
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旧帖 2019-08-21 03:01:39
Post #10
Re: Feathercraft 永远的经典——国际技术讨论保 ...
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 http://foldingkayaks.org/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=5093&hilit=klight
 
旧帖 2019-08-23 08:22:29
Post #11
Re: Feathercraft 永远的经典——国际技术讨论保 ...
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 Sunscreen for your Kayak
JULY 17, 2013 / LEAVE A COMMENT
We have had a few customers come in looking for a product we no longer carry: the old McNett 303 that some people used on the decks (and hulls?) of older kayaks.

This products usefulness on our new fabrics is debatable, we no longer use it, but acknowledge that some would like to. I actually think it could be very useful in protecting boats in extremely prolonged solar exposure, such as:

-sailboat deck stored kayaks
-rental boats or tour fleets
-outdoor storage

It can be found at the MEC in Canada and the REI in the U.S.A.
 
旧帖 2019-08-23 08:24:07
Post #12
Re: Feathercraft 永远的经典——国际技术讨论保 ...
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 “The skin is too damn small!!!”
JUNE 24, 2010 / LEAVE A COMMENT
Something I posted on foldingkayak.org:

A quick note on our shrinking skins; this is something that happens on a regular basis due mostly to the material in the L-strip and to a small extent the hull fabric itself. When wetted and dried repeatedly the core fabric expands and contracts; when you leave you boat rolled up over the winter they will in some examples contract as much as 2″. This is a bigger problem in longer boats (K1!!) as there is more L-strip and hull length to shrink!

We don’t think this is a major problem, or one we are willing to correct. Hear me out, there are a few reasons: The solution to the “problem” is simple and our weldable fabric is bar none the best in the industry (the company who makes it for us is constantly approached by many kayak companies and asked for “Feathercraft’s fabric”, quote, unquote).

Solution.

If your boat is hard to assemble/ extend, its probably not you. Fill your bathtub with water and submerse the boat over night (24 hours+). It is best to turn the skin completely inside out through the cockpit. When you pull your boat out of the water immediately assemble it (wear a swimsuit!!!). A couple hours after you have stretched the skin out, try and extend it an extra hole or two.

What we do (in short):

Turn the skin inside out,  except for the very ends.  Close sponson valves.Totally submerse the skin in a tank or bathtub full of water, overnight or for two days.

What happens:    water gets into the fabric itself,  from the inside.  The inside has less coating than the outside.  Water is able to seep in between the coating and the fabric.  The nylon fabric expands when wet.

– Assemble the boat while the skin is still wet, and extend.

Let the skin dry on the frame. This should help you guys out, hope it does.
Happy paddling all.
D.
 
旧帖 2019-08-23 08:24:43
Post #13
Re: Feathercraft 永远的经典——国际技术讨论保 ...
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 Take care of your frame. Because it takes care of you.
JANUARY 24, 2010 / 1 COMMENT
We have many people come to our shop from all over the world bringing in their Feathercraft with some sort of ailment that needs to be healed. One of the most consistent themes we see in our repair shop is the dreaded and avoidable Siezed Frame!

Today I wanna touch on the fact that you bought a Collapsible Kayak, and that kayak needs regular collapsing!! If you do not take your boat apart and give its frame a little TLC, you will invariably face one of the following; pocketbook lightning, hours of exasperation or brand new really expensive rigid kayak.

If you intend to keep your boat assembled for a long period of the paddling season (3-5 months and longer) you NEED to lubricate the frame. This cannot be stressed enough. Salt water will get in your boat by some means, and when it evaporates the salt crystals left behind will form a cement in the joints of the frame. I have worked on a seized insert on a keel bar that I swear was stronger than any part of the rest of the frame; the boat had been left together for 2 years. The frame required extensive repairs to the tune of $500. Have I scared you yet?


Removing the Piston from the Cylinder.

The repair kit comes complete with a bottle of BoSheild T-9; this should be applied to all the inserts on the frame and the piston parts of the extension bars.

When applying the T-9 use a pair of rubber gloves instead of a rag so that the lubricant is not absorbed by the applicator. Using gloves allows a little lubricant to go a long ways, a simple drop on each insert is plenty enough.


A drop on a rubber glove goes a long ways.

Should you run out of Bosheild, you can contact FC for more, or visit a bicycle store. They carry Teflon based chain oil, such as Phil’s Tenacious Dry Lube. These will work almost as well as Bosheild. Be sure to use a Dry lube, not a Wet lube (the guys at the bike store will know what that is).

Please lubricate the frame at least once a year to ensure your boat lasts you a long time
 
旧帖 2019-08-27 03:13:43
Post #14
Re: Feathercraft 永远的经典——国际技术讨论保 ...
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 Why Feathercraft Is The Favorite Kayak Of The Arctic
In 2016, When Feathercraft Ended Production, It Marked The End Of An Era In The Sea Kayaking World

By Steve Ruskay
Feathercraft kayaks ended 40 years of production in 2016, marking the end of an era in the sea kayaking world.

Fortunately, many crafts continue to thrive on the expedition scene because the unique folding design allows them to be transported to places hardshell boats simply can’t go.

Doug Simpson, Feathercraft founder, and designer invented the skin-on-frame foldable kayak design while working as a prospector and pilot in the remote wilderness of Canada’s Northwest Territories.

He wanted a lightweight, packable boat to load into float planes, that was quick to assemble and disassemble, and durable enough to last in the remote Canadian wilderness.

His patented his first design in 1977. He chose the name Feathercraft as an ode to a feather’s sturdy, hollow vane, like the tubes used in the frame.

The most popular Feathercraft design was the K2 Expedition tandem kayak. The K2 weighed 87 pounds and had a capacity of 700 pounds, making it ideal for extended expeditions with extensive food and gear requirements.

During his early design years, Simpson rented a small shack on Granville Island in Vancouver, British Columbia. The space was 19 feet and three inches in length, which determined the maximum length of kayak he could build. To work on the opposite side of the boat, Simpson had to take the kayak outside, turn it around and squeeze it back into this shop.

Simpson chose T-6 anodized aluminum for the frame material, a common material for airplane parts. It has a high strength to weight ratio, and most importantly, is resistant to pitting and corrosion by salt water. The hypalon and urethane skin was all hand-cut and sewn. Thanks to high-quality components, Feathercraft kayaks regularly lasted for 30 years or more with proper maintenance.

I have been paddling Feathercrafts for many years in the Arctic. There certainly are tricks and quirks about building them, maintaining them on an expedition, and storing them. The manual suggests a 45-minute time for assembly.

In the field, with sometimes damaged or missing parts or in bad weather, this process can take quite a bit longer, and cost a few skinned knuckles along the way. Yet, as expedition boats, they are user-friendly—easy for packing and ideal for large cargo volumes. I have landed them in the surf, bashed through thick brash ice, and felt them flex in the large ocean swell.

I have also had a few mishaps. Luckily, field repairs are easy, and often permanent. The old saying holds true: take care of your boat, and your boat will take care of you.

With the high price of air cargo, most Feathercrafts still in service are cached high in the Arctic, or in holds of expedition cruise ships.

This past summer, I took a moment to salute one of the Feathercrafts in our long-standing East Greenland fleet. Pinky, as it was aptly named in recent years, was a first-generation K2 Expedition kayak with a woven nylon skin. It had seen many sea days over its years of service, and its once deep red hull is now a sun-faded and salt-stained pink.

Pinky’s last trip was in the Ammassalik Fjord on the East Coast of Greenland. It was transported from Ittoqqortoormiit, Greenland, further north, where it previously served as an expedition fleet boat for more than two decades years.

During the long voyage, which included a snowmobile trek through two mountain passes, Pinky sustained two injuries to critical frame components. Even with careful hands and a delicate touch, these components failed while it was being dismantled. A short service was held for Pinky beside the sea, and a salute made to the many miles traveled, and many amazing things seen from its cockpit. Most of Pinky’s parts were donated to other Feathercrafts, so in a way, it will live on as a part of the fleet. At sea, where it was meant to be.
 
旧帖 2019-08-27 03:19:20
Post #15
Re: Feathercraft 永远的经典——国际技术讨论保 ...
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 为什么fc是北极最喜欢的皮划艇
2016年,当羽毛球结束生产时,它标志着海上皮划艇探险世界一个时代的结束

史蒂夫鲁斯凯
FC皮艇于2016年结束了40年的生产,标志着海上皮划艇世界的结束。

幸运的是,许多工艺品继续在探险现场茁壮成长,因为独特的折叠设计使他们能够被运送到硬壳船只根本无法去的地方。

Feathercraft创始人和设计师Doug Simpson在加拿大西北地区的偏远荒野中担任探矿者和飞行员时,发明了皮肤框架可折叠皮划艇设计。

他想要一艘轻便的,可打包的船装载到浮动飞机上,它可以快速组装和拆卸,并且经久耐用,可以在偏远的加拿大荒野中使用。

他在1977年获得了他的第一个设计专利。他选择了Feathercraft这个名字作为羽毛坚固的空心叶片的颂歌,就像框架中使用的管子一样。

最受欢迎的fc设计是K2 Expedition双人皮划艇。  K2重87磅,容量为700磅,非常适合需要大量食物和装备的长途探险。

在他早期的设计年代,辛普森在不列颠哥伦比亚省温哥华的格兰维尔岛租了一个小棚屋。 这个空间长19英尺,长3英寸,这决定了他可以建造的皮划艇的最大长度。 为了在船的另一边工作,辛普森不得不把皮划艇带到外面,转过身来把它挤回这个商店。

辛普森选择T-6阳极氧化铝作为框架材料,这是飞机零件的常用材料。 它具有高强度重量比,最重要的是,耐盐水腐蚀和腐蚀。  hypalon和聚氨酯皮肤全部手工切割和缝制。 凭借高品质的部件,Feathercraft皮划艇经常进行适当的维护,持续30年或更长时间。

我在北极地区用fc划了很多年。 肯定有关于构建它们,保持它们进行远征并存储它们的技巧和怪癖。 该手册建议45分钟的装配时间。

在现场,有时损坏或丢失部件或在恶劣天气下,这个过程可能需要更长的时间,并且沿途会花费一些皮肤指关节。 然而,作为远征船,它们是用户友好的 - 易于包装,是大货量的理想选择。 我把它们放在冲浪中,用厚厚的冰冷的冰块击打,感觉它们在大海浪中弯曲。

我也有过一些不幸事件。 幸运的是,现场维修很容易,而且往往是永久性的。 俗话说得好:照顾你的船,你的船会照顾你。

由于航空货运价格居高不下,大多数仍在使用中的fc都在北极或远征游轮的高处缓存。

今年夏天,我花了一点时间向我们长期在东格陵兰岛的舰队中的一个fc致敬。  Pinky,近年来恰如其名,是第一代带有尼龙编织皮肤的K2 Expedition皮划艇。 经过多年的服役,它已经看到了许多海上的日子,它曾经的深红色船体现在是一个阳光褪色和盐渍的粉红色。

Pinky的最后一次旅行是在格陵兰岛东海岸的Ammassalik峡湾。 它从格陵兰岛的Ittoqqortoormiit运送到更北的地方,在此之前它曾作为远征舰队的船只运行了二十多年。

在漫长的航程中,包括通过两个山口的雪地摩托徒步旅行,Pinky对关键的框架部件造成了两次伤害。 即使用细心的手和细腻的触感,这些组件在拆卸时也会失效。 为Pinky在海边举行了一次短暂的服务,并向行驶了许多英里的地方致敬,并从驾驶舱看到许多惊人的事情。  Pinky的大部分零件都捐赠给了其他fc,所以在某种程度上,它将作为舰队的一部分继续存在。 在海上,它的意图。
 
旧帖 2019-09-05 16:44:46
Post #16
Re: Feathercraft 永远的经典——国际技术讨论保留
 
微笑的甲鱼 离线 微笑的甲鱼 船是真不错 就是2-3万的价格接受不了
 
旧帖 2019-09-05 20:06:21
Post #17
Re: Feathercraft 永远的经典——国际技术讨论保 ...
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04
微笑的甲鱼 wrote:
船是真不错 就是2-3万的价格接受不了



如果北美购买2000 年左右的,基本可以控制在一万人民币以下
 
旧帖 2019-09-26 23:30:29
Post #18
Re: Feathercraft 永远的经典——国际技术讨论保 ...
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 I never needed any strings (no pun intended). In Big Kahuna with hatches on multiday trips the problem is not to reach the gear when retrieveing it, but to shove it in when loading. My longest trip in Kahuna so far was 2 weeks, with all the food, 20 liters of fresh water and bulky desalinator. See first few photos in http://alexm221100.googlepages.com/bagamasapr2008. The very last bow and stern compartments should NOT be loaded with cargo, but they should be filled with flotation bags instead.

In the worst case scenario (which was my case), you can fill those last compartments with cargo, but it has to be some light items. Kahuna is a short boat and will nosedive in any wave if you place something heavy in the very end of the bow. Due to the amount of cargo, and because I had to carry all the empty bags on board - FC backpack and Longhaul Longren bag, - I had to use those last compartment partially. I had small flotation bag in stern and no flotation bags in bow. I placed very light items in the last bow compartment - self-inflatable Thermarest pad, blue sleeping foam and inflatable seat. These items was light enough to prevent nosediving, and also would work as a flotation if boat gets swamped.
 
旧帖 2019-09-26 23:31:46
Post #19
Re: Feathercraft 永远的经典——国际技术讨论保留
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 There is no need to keep Thermarest in a drybag - except for the reason that it tends to unwind by itself (even with valve closed). There is very little wetness in Kahuna. To keep Thermarest compact, I simply put a short piece of bungee cord, tied in a ring, around the deflated and rolled Thermarest.

The concept "many small drybags is better than few big ones" is popular, but not flawless. Yes, It is easier to find a room for many small bags than for a few big bags in a small boat like Kahuna. (Few big bags can be impossible to load at all). OTH, small bags (and especially long bags) make it difficult to fill these bags with items like food or clothes, and even more difficult to find and retrieve items from there. Try to fit a 0 C degree sleeping bag into 15 or 17 cm diameter bag already filled with some clothes and you'll see what I mean. (Or to find and retrieve one pair of warm socks from long and narrow bag. When you have more than one bag with clothes you'll have to empty all those bags). Also, with many small bags it takes longer to bring them to and from the boat (plus, longer time to fill narrow bags and close each small bag). So, my approach is - to keep as big and as fewer bags as possible. You'll have to find for yourself what is the maximum possible size of bag in your case (and how many big bags you can carry). I keep only one big bag - 35L bag with clothes and sleeping bag, placed cross-wise in front of the pedal rails (purple bag in the Bahamas trip link above). All my other bags are smaller. It is very convenient to have all the shore clothes in one bag, because you never know what clothes you might need on that particular evening before going to sleep.

I think, the only simple sail to use with Kahuna is 8.5 sq.ft Spirit Sail. The drawback is that you can't have a deckbag on the foredeck with a Spirit Sail. Pacific Action I had to cut down to approximately 9 sq.ft. too, because it's too long for Kahuna.

PS: What can make loading easier. There are few black plastic pieces on Kahuna tubes (material Delrin). One is on the stern deckbar, and others are on the tubes around the cockpit area. They have very sharp corners, can scratch your hands and also facilitate jamming of drybags. I used a small file and sandpaper to round all the corners and edges of those pieces except for working surfaces - the surfaces facing the ribs and one surface used as a support for extension lever.
 
旧帖 2019-09-26 23:33:10
Post #20
Re: Feathercraft 永远的经典——国际技术讨论保留
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 This was exactly what I was doing when sailed with Kahuna - loading FC backpack into the very end of the stern, and another empty bag (approximately same capacity, only longer) - into the very end of the bow. Because the mast in the middle of stern compartment made my loading options limited. In Bahamas trip I didn't have a mast, so could afford filling those last compartments with lightweight items, namely, flotation bag and blue sleeping foam. I carry both Thermarest and sleeping foam mat.

And I agree with the concept of keeping as few drybags as possible, and therefore making them as big as possible, as long as they fit in.

One thing I can't understand is how one can keep 10L water bags in Kahuna cockpit - there is no room for them. If you do this, your legs will be jammed from both sides, making you feel uncomfortable and making steering difficult. Even in K1, which is 1.5" wider, there is no room for them in the cockpit. In Longhaul MK1, which is 2.5" wider than Kahuna and has much longer cockpit, I could place 2*10L water bags in the cockpit - it felt a little cramped but doable.

Another thing that I would never do is keeping tent and sleeping bag in the same drybag. Tent can get wet outside from rain, night dew or wet inside from condensate (in BC we have all three kinds, and in desert Baja I had a night dew almost every night). In the closed volume of drybag this humidity will transfer to other items. Sleeping bag is one thing that you don't want to get wet. Normally, I don't bother with keeping tent in a drybag. In FC boats there is very little humidity under deck - barely enough to seep through the silnylon tent bag (I have MSR Hubba-Hubba). If anything, tent will not become more wet while under way.
 
旧帖 2019-09-26 23:34:24
Post #21
Re: Feathercraft 永远的经典——国际技术讨论保留
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 I usually had good supply of fresh water underways, two 5l bags are easily stowed behind and in front of the seat.
Commonly tent and sleeping in a single bag is a no-go. I would not stuff a soaking flysheet into that bag. If that is the case, I just leave it outside. Usually I managed to get it reasonable dry. But I did not paddle tidal waters.
I just did it for more than seven years and it was fine (even with a down-bag, another paddlers no-go).
Once again, it is an individual task. Some Ideas will not be sensible under certain conditions but are fine on lakes and rivers or the Baltic Sea / Mediterranean Sea, where your schedule does not depend on the tides in most areas.
 
旧帖 2019-09-26 23:34:41
Post #22
Re: Feathercraft 永远的经典——国际技术讨论保留
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 Yes, 5L bag will fit in front of the seat, and another 5L bag - behind the seat. Though, both of them will only last for 2.5 - 3.0 days, enough for a weekend trip (where I normally use a hardshell), and much less than I would need in trips that I do with a folder. For this reason I prefer 2 or 3 10L bags, rather than 4 or 6 5L bags (which also agrees with my concept of fewer and larger items, as long as they fit in). I bought one 5L bag last year, thinking that 30L won't be enough, and already sold it, as being not useful to me. But of course, this all depends on duration of trip and water availability.

As Greg noted, one 10L bag can be placed in front of the K1 seat. This won't work same well for shorter people and for Kahuna, as Kahuna seat hangs much lower/closer to the hull, and also the cockpit is 1.5" narrower than in K1, and shorter legs are kept only a little bent in knees. Might work in Kahuna if you don't have to steer a lot.

10L MSR bag keeps more than 8L if filled carefully. The last 1 or 2 liters at the top are the most difficult, but the very last model of the bag has this problem resolved - they've added a plastic collar around the big opening, to hold while filling.
 
旧帖 2019-09-26 23:35:41
Post #23
Re: Feathercraft 永远的经典——国际技术讨论保留
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 One suggestion (which I don't believe has been mentioned yet) is to partially deflate the sponsons before loading the Kahuna. In addition to facilitating loading, this procedure helps to hold gear in place (ie after loading the kayak and re-inflating the sponsons, gear won't shift around).

Also, keep a large empty cloth bag rolled up under the seat - to receive all the small dry bags as you unload them from the kayak, for transport to campsite or portage. Nothing is more frustrating than repeated back-and-forth jaunts with armloads of 5L & 10L dry bags.

John C in LondonOn
 
旧帖 2019-09-26 23:35:55
Post #24
Re: Feathercraft 永远的经典——国际技术讨论保留
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 Yes - and yes. I don't remember either if I mentioned this old trick too - partially deflate the sponsons before loading the gear. This is how I could fit my 35L bag crosswise in front of the pedal rails.

Yes - old bag with shoulder strap. I used to carry it behind the seat, for small gear. But sometimes I doubt it usefulness. I don't have any 5L bags, and very few items are small - like stove in pot, propane cartridge, etc. My smallest drybag is 10L and it's filled with food, quite heavy, I don't want to carry more than two of them at a time. My only small bag is a yellow FC drybag with repair kit, and I don't usually take it out of the very end of the boat where it lives, unless I need to do repairs. The advantage of the "transport bag" is that you have you hands empty to help yourself climb over large boulders, log jams etc, on the way to the camp. The disadvantage is that all the weight is on one shoulder, which is not healthy. But I'm still using it sometimes.
 
旧帖 2019-09-26 23:36:08
Post #25
Re: Feathercraft 永远的经典——国际技术讨论保留
 
kurtyang04 离线 kurtyang04 Re: Dromedary bag in the cockpit of Kahuna or K1.

I usually keep fresh ideas on the "back burner" until test them properly. Intuitively didn't like the idea of a heavy loose objects in the cockpit. I think now I now why. During the last long weekend I flipped over while trying to get through the impassable (at that time and in that direction) Boat Passage near Saturna Island, BC. Two other kayaks tried before me and one after me, and failed too. The incident was caused not by the heavy Drom bag itself, of course, but some things I didn't like in this experience.

1) It wasn't difficult to get back in the boat, but it was difficult to flip it back upright. I only had a weekend gear under decks, and 10L Drom bag under the Seasock was roughly half-full. The foot end of the sock stayed under deck, but the Drom bag hung lower in the the empty sock, shifting the center of mass lower when the boat was upside down. I can't be 100% sure, but this was one of the reasons why it was difficult to right the boat up.

2) In the evening I noticed that my legs where scratched and bruised in front (where the bone is), most likely against the rib near the deck, while upside down. Scratches were long, which makes me think something was pressing my legs to the rib while exiting the boat upside down, and the most likely culprit was the Drom bag again.

Placing the Drom bag in front of Kahuna seat didn't interfere with bracing or steering, and if there is absolutely no other room, it can be placed there. OTH, if there is any other suitable location (behind the seat, or under decks) - this is where Drom bag should be placed, IMO.
 
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